WEST BENGAL- DAY 4- PART II
JAN 28th
KOLKATA
Standing at the bus stop is not helping. All incoming buses, or rather the conductors are refusing to go to the Indian Museum. That is until a passenger seated in one of the buses decides to help. “You are standing on the wrong road”, he loudly says so that his voice, floating across the bus and its passengers reaches those who stand in distress. He continues speaking in Bengali. “Cross over, cross over,” he says, his voice rising above the din. He waves from the window and smiles as the bus moves on.
The road is duly crossed over and a bus to Park Street and the New Market gets boarded. The conductor points to the Museum as the flyover gets crossed. “Cross the road and walk back” he repeatedly says and keeps a lookout until it gets done. The traffic light, still red acts in connivance with all this. As it turns green, a wave of the hand on both sides of the road concludes another pleasant encounter.
A 10 min walk surrounded by street shops selling all that is available on Earth becomes a little slow but brings unexpected relief too, plush as they are with tarpaulin sheets as a heat and rain protection. Where the last shop ends, the Indian Museum begins.
THE INDIAN MUSEUM
Built in 1814, the Indian Museum is the largest in the country. Its huge, imposing structure, massive stairs, and long courtyard house all things past- zoological, anthropological, botanical, historical, archaeological, and of course, the story of life and that of man. One corridor has a log of wood, several metres long, said to be the bark of a tree at least a million years old.
Today, the courtyard is the venue of a children’s painting competition. Most of the young participants have completed their artwork and are enjoying the puppet show. Those yet to complete are working on their projects in the running corridor. Parents and grandparents, meanwhile are enjoying complimentary beverages and cookies. Everything and everyone seem to be working in tandem.
FORT WILLIAM
“Walk straight down this road to reach Fort William”, answers a passerby to the query. The 2 km walk in the warm afternoon becomes bearable thanks to the boulevard roads. The shade of huge trees planted at least 100 years ago has bestowed solace to many a weary traveller and are doing so even today. An NCC Centre on the right provides a glimpse of parade practice by the Cadets, all in their smart khaki uniforms. A group of horse riders, probably part of Kolkata Police straddle along smartly crossing the roundabout.
And then, there it is. Fort William.
Built between 1696- 1702 Fort William served as a military garrison and merchant station ( Factory) for the East India Company. The old walls of this complex of an area of around 70 hectares have been a mute witness to history in the making, to events, rebellions, revolts, and perhaps some good times too. Today the Fort is part of the Indian Military and is presently under the care of 9 Gorkha Rifles. Entry for civilians is not allowed. Except for tours which can be undertaken on Sundays. Lack of time means it is an opportunity lost.
A TAXI RIDE & ROSOGOLLAS DIVINE
Despite no hope of an entry into the Fort, disappointments are quickly overcome. And the reason for that is a ride in the city’s iconic Yellow taxi. The yellow Ambassador car is driven by the elderly Radheshyam. Within a minute of getting seated, Radheshyam asks for a tip. “Money is hard to come by”, he says by way of explanation. “I thought you being outsiders would pay me extra.” The car itself is in a very poor state, its seat covers are torn, and its bare floor looks like having reached a breaking point. The car runs in jumps and starts, but who can deny its special status? What is Kolkata without experiencing a part of its history?
Radheshyam drops off at KC Das Sweet Shop in the New Market area. It has been highly recommended for its famed Bengali sweets. Sweetness galore at every counter, but it’s the serving staff who perhaps makes this place stand out. Courteous, helpful, and pleasant, they are such a relief from their contemporaries in the North. KC Das is an old-time shop, almost antique compared to other modern ones. And yet, there are not a table free and long queues at the payment counter. That is the kind of patronage the shop enjoys.
The middle-aged Manager is sitting in one corner with his account books. Facing him is his assistant busy counting coins which perhaps several patrons must have paid in return for sweet delights. Now, where in the world would such a site be visible today?
A BAGHA DANCE & A TIME-ELAPSED LORE
The tired souls now head back. This time in a city taxi. There have been enough adventures for the day. Along the route flys by the Tipu Sultan Mosque built in 1842 by Prince Ghulam Mohammad, the youngest son of the Tiger of Mysore.
It’s late evening now. The sun has set and darkness has yet to envelop the city completely. Its that magic moment in time.
Sanjay Tiwari, the Manager of the heritage hotel joins while a traditional Purulia Bagha (Tiger) dance is being watched with awe, and tea and jhalmuri are satiating the hungry souls. The dancers in massive colourful masks and elaborate dresses, through their performance, unfold the story of tigers and humans. The accompanying beating of drums adds to the mystique.
Sanjay volunteers to show around the hotel and share its amazing history. Originally a zamindar bari (residence of a zamindar), it took several years and crores of rupees for sure, to convert it into what it is today. The story built around it, half-truth and half- fantasy are fascinating, to say the least. Just goes to show what some good finances and a creative mind can do. A visit here should become part of a visitor’s itinerary.
The gentle tinkle of the water fountains in the biggest of courtyards present anywhere, and the final clitter clatter of the Restaurant staff, as they clear for the day and prepare for the morrow, is a befitting conclusion to a ‘wholesome’ day.
Public transport has now got done and dusted with. Tomorrow the hotel cab will be hired and the rest of the metro city conquered.
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